Porto in December - a trip to the pearl of the Atlantic

Porto in winter: The most beautiful sights and many surprises

Porto is one of those cities that doesn't need to clamor for attention and is all the more memorable for it. When people think of Portugal, they often think first of Lisbon, the Algarve with its striking rock formations, or the famous surf spots along the Atlantic coast. However, Porto has established itself in recent years as a top destination for independent travelers who value authenticity, history, and a relaxed travel experience. Portugal's second-largest city is picturesquely situated on the Douro River and combines historical substance with a vibrant, down-to-earth present. Instead of grand gestures, details define the cityscape: narrow streets, faded facades, traditional cafés, and the constant rhythm of the river. Lisbon's little sister is a real treat for travel enthusiasts.

Admittedly, since I'd never been to Portugal before my trip to Porto, I initially really wanted to go to Lisbon! My fellow students, who had done a semester abroad in Portugal, told me Lisbon was much more lively, more vibrant, more diverse, and more beautiful. However, the flight connections proved inconvenient for my planned travel dates. So, I needed an alternative. During my research, Porto increasingly came into focus. The city promised less hustle and bustle, but more structure, history, and a slower pace of life. The decision was therefore made without much ado, and the flights to Porto were booked. What started as a backup plan turned into the best city break of the year.

Exploring Porto on foot: A walk along the Douro

Porto held a surprise in store for us upon arrival. Contrary to its reputation as a rainy, slightly melancholy city, it greeted us with blue skies, sunshine, and temperatures above 20 degrees Celsius – in the middle of December. The expectation of wandering through a melancholic, mysterious, gray city proved unfounded. Instead, an almost Mediterranean holiday atmosphere quickly settled in. Porto's ambiance immediately reminded me of the novels of Carlos Ruiz Zafón. Even though his stories are set in Catalonia, the city, with its slightly patinated architecture and quiet melancholy, could just as easily have served as a backdrop. On this day, however, an unexpected lightness prevailed. As with every trip to a seaside city, a fixed ritual followed: barely arrived, I was immediately drawn to the water. Off to the sea!

Equipped with my camera, I first went to one Walk along the river Douro, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. "You've only really been where you've walked." Johann Wolfgang von Goethe once said that. And I think he was right. I love exploring new areas on foot and walking for miles: leisurely but steadily. There's nothing better than experiencing your surroundings on foot. Although in Porto I almost reached my personal limit… But more on that later.

The Farol Molhe do Douro: Porto's small but beautiful lighthouse

The sun was low in the sky, bathing the landscape in a hazy, golden light, as if walking through a light mist of gold. In the distance, Porto's second landmark was visible: the small, old lighthouse, battered daily by surreal waves. Eerily beautiful, this sight captivated strollers, fishermen, and travelers alike. The moment was particularly impressive because we were standing right among local fishermen. Hardly any tourists, the scenery as pristine and authentic as any traveler could wish for. Rarely have I felt so balanced and at peace in a new environment as here on the Douro.

Advertising

The way the river flowed into the ocean so naturally, and how serenely the people gazed at the water and the horizon, was a moment that stayed with me long afterward. A scene at the lighthouse particularly moved me. An older woman with tired, sad eyes wasn't deterred by the high waves and walked purposefully onto the jetty. She circled the lighthouse and gazed out to sea, as if remembering something or saying goodbye to someone. When she returned, tears glistened in her eyes. Her striped, colorful socks were striking—a small detail that, amidst the melancholy, brought a smile to my face. I couldn't help but think of Lou from Jojo Moyes' "Me Before You."

How can you not immediately fall in love with people who wear colorful striped socks, regardless of their age?

Even if it was only a fleeting encounter at the lighthouse in Porto: it is this lasting impression of a city, its people, the moments in their lives. 

These moments and encounters with people are what travel is all about for me.

Advertising

Livraria Lello e Irmao: Porto's famous and beautiful library

The next day also greeted us with sunshine and a wealth of new impressions. Our first stop was the legendary Livraria Lello e Irmão bookstore. Many locals say that this very place inspired J.K. Rowling's Harry Potter series. She did, in fact, live in Porto for several years and apparently spent a great deal of time browsing the shelves of this bookstore.

The city itself reveals numerous parallels to the stories. Students in traditional black cloaks, winding medieval alleyways that seem almost fairytale-like, and this special, hypnotic atmosphere convey a feeling that a new story could come to life here at any moment.

And things get really magical in the Lello brothers’ bookstore. The Guardian awards “Liraria Lello e Irmao” third place in the category “Most beautiful bookshop in the world”, while Lonely Planet even put the bookshop in first place among the most beautiful bookshops in Europe.

The 19th-century Art Nouveau building still enchants the stream of visitors from all over the world. Don't let the long queue at the entrance put you off, though. As soon as you step through the door, you enter a magical, unique place. Of course, the bookstore is a tourist magnet, but it's definitely worth a visit. You've probably seen "Home Alone 2: Lost in New York." Despite the books, "Liraria Lello e Irmao" is reminiscent of that fictional toy store from the film. Browsing in such a wonderful atmosphere is so much more enjoyable than in a chain bookstore.

Advertising

Porto's historic old town: The Ribeira with its world-famous Ponte Dom Luís I bridge

Many photos and impressions later, we continued on foot along the Douro to the "Ponte Dom Luís I" bridge, which connects the city of Porto with the port wine cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia connects. It is located in the historic center of the city, which has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996. This neighborhood will too Riverside Called (Portuguese for "riverbank"), it offers the perfect place for long walks along the Douro River with its riverside promenade ("Cais de Ribeira"). Here you will find numerous restaurants, souvenir shops, and also the famous port wine boats, which the locals call barcos rabelos.

Built by Gustav Eiffel's students Arthur and Maurey Teofilo Seyrig, the bridge is 385,25 meters long Ponte Dom Luis I as a landmark of the city and belongs to World Heritage Site. It owes its name to the reigning King Dom Luís I (it was opened on October 31, 1886).

Take the cable car from Porto to Vila Nova de Gaia for port wine tasting

With tired feet, we decided to take the cable car. The ride was quite inexpensive, and the tickets even included a tasting of the famous port wine. Incidentally, the cable car also offers a perfect view of Vila Nova de Gaia, the center of port wine production. We were able to relax in a charming wine cellar with live music and by the fireplace.

The famous historical tram in Porto

So far, no minute has been like the other in this lively and vibrant city. It is particularly noteworthy that almost all sights are within easy walking distance. Our feet burned after the three-day hike, but it was definitely worth it. Due to the many new impressions, one even sometimes forgot that one had been on one's feet for so long. Otherwise there is the subway and of course the famous historic tram, which is visually almost identical to the train in Lisbon but has the advantage over its big sister city that you don't have to queue as long to ride it in the off-season.

The most beautiful cafes and restaurants in Porto

By the way, Porto is not only the city of port wine, but also of cafés. Although there are also many restaurants, cafés predominate in Porto. And almost every café is unique and individually decorated. There are many hip and very cheap cafes near the university, like this one Embaixada do Porto where you can enjoy analog photography and vinyl records while sipping coffee, sipping wine, or enjoying tea. The café is a fusion of a shop selling stylish Polaroid cameras and record players, and a bar that hosts occasional events. Nearby, there's also an alternative market offering vintage records, regional crafts, and incredibly delicious vegan pumpkin cupcakes.

Francesinha: Porto's national urban dish

Restaurants primarily serve fresh fish and seafood. Bacalhau (cod) is offered on almost every corner. Those feeling adventurous can try the city's national dish, "Francesinha" (Editor's note: not for the faint of heart or stomach!), which is available in nearly every establishment. For those with a sweet tooth, the delicious custard tarts are a must. Pasteis De Nata taste that can be tasted on almost every corner.

Porto has captured my heart. It's a mosaic of architecture, nature, and its people: like the older man strolling through Porto's streets with a bouquet of flowers, and I secretly wondered who the beautiful blooms were for. Perhaps because it reminds me of so many other cities, and yet Porto is so unique in this symbiosis. Sometimes it's Lisbon, sometimes Paris, and quite often it's a smaller version of Barcelona. And yet it's completely different. I'm in love. Would you like to fall in love too? Then pack your bags and pay a visit to this pearl on the Atlantic! Before your trip begins, you can get a sneak peek here: