From Bernkastel-Kues to Calmont: Our Moselle road trip in June

Welcome to the Moselland: where wine is a cultural asset

The more often I travel abroad, the more I learn to appreciate the beautiful corners of Germany. All the great landscapes and places that we have here really strike me now. I was in one of these places 9 years ago in winter, but I had no idea at the time that I would only return so many years later.

In friendly cooperation with Mosellandtouristik

I had long wished to visit this place again sometime in the summer and imagined what the town might look like on warm summer days. I'm talking about Bernkastel-Kues , a truly fairytale town on the Moselle River. Colorful half-timbered houses, straight out of a picture book, line the streets. Framed by lush green, towering vineyards, the Moselle River shapes the landscape and life here.

The Moselle region: Known for excellent wines and the impressive landscape

The Moselle region is known for its excellent wines and stunning scenery. Amidst this breathtaking natural landscape, we took a 3-day road trip to the Moselle in June. Within seconds, I felt like I was on vacation. Find out all about my experiences on the Moselle here! Enjoy!

A long weekend on the Moselle

Day 1: Bernkastel-Kues - fairytale town full of surprises

Our road trip started in Bernkastel-Kues. Although the weather looked rather gloomy for our upcoming Moselle trip in the morning, all the clouds cleared later and we were treated to sunshine. We stayed at the charming Märchenhotel ( Fairytale Hotel ), a themed hotel in the heart of Bernkastel-Kues' picturesque old town. The hotel offers fantastic views of the vineyards and the cozy alleyways of the old town. After checking in, we set off to pick up our bicycles. Then an exciting guided tour of the town was on the agenda. Now I understand where the expression "steinreich" (literally "stone-rich") comes from. Hundreds of years ago, only wealthy people could afford the massive stone houses and liked to display their prosperity and wealth in this way.

Mediterranean lifestyle on the Moselle

The lively atmosphere in Bernkastel-Kues reminds me of those small, cute Mediterranean vacation spots. I immediately noticed how touristy Bernkastel-Kues has become compared to my first stay. Nevertheless, I found the rush of visitors to be quite pleasant and the small town did not seem too crowded. Above all, there are a lot of day tourists who leave before 16 p.m. However, I am not surprised that Bernkastel-Kues is now so popular with travellers.

Leisure program for every taste

I'm much more surprised that still very few young people visit Bernkastel-Kues. The city now has so much leisure time to offer for every age group (and above all incredibly great photo locations that almost nobody knows! But more on that later...). Be it a party boat trip on the Moselle or a romantic bachelor party in a VW bus. There is something for every taste.

Despite modern and contemporary leisure activities, the city still wants to preserve its unique cityscape and still attaches great importance to authenticity. In Bernkastel-Kues you literally feel like you are in a fairy tale. This is mainly due to the colorful, magical half-timbered houses. One of the highlights of Bernkastel-Kues is the medieval market square with its gabled half-timbered houses from the 17th century.

Instagram insider tip: Best photo location for bloggers & Instagrammers

The most popular photo motif here is the narrow Spitzhäuschen from 1416. In front of this little house you can take really cool pictures that hardly anyone else has posted on Instagram. The famous Christmas market, which is one of the most beautiful Christmas markets in Germany, also takes place on the market square every year during Advent. The city is considered the home of many winegrowers and a lot has happened in recent years. Above all, many young winegrowers like to combine tradition and modernity here. Bernkastel-Kues is a true paradise for wine lovers! Numerous wine tastings are offered. And there will be a lot of celebrations! The middle Moselle wine festival takes place here at the end of August and beginning of September. And during the summer holidays there is a summer stage with lots of live music.

Moselle tour with a view

After the informative city tour, we went on the ship for the Moselle tour. Small round trips are offered in Bernkastel-Kues from 11.00 a.m. A beautiful panorama awaited us behind every bend in the river. We particularly liked the landscape with the picturesque, small towns on the Moselle, which you can see during the boat trip. After the river trip, equipped with the camera, we went back to the old town of Bernkastel-Kues to take a few photos in the evening sun. We ended the day with a delicious 3-course menu in the fairy tale hotel.

Day 2: Mythos Moselle bike tour, High Moselle bridge and wine tasting with a view

On the second day of our trip, we went on a bike tour to Traben-Trarbach . This route along the Moselle River is 25 km long and passes many small, picturesque towns. But it wasn't just going to be an ordinary bike ride. We were heading to Mythos Mosel , a famous Riesling wine tasting event in the region. Mythos Mosel is a vintage tasting event featuring around 120 participating wineries, taking place at 30 host wineries. Each winery also hosts three guest establishments, so that approximately 24 different wines can be tasted at each stop. The weather seemed to be on our side, so after a delicious breakfast, we hopped right on our bikes.

Surrounded by water and mountains, it's no wonder this premium cycling route is one of the most popular in Germany. While I enjoy cycling, I sometimes get annoyed by nonexistent or poorly signposted cycle paths. That's never a problem on the Moselle. Here, cycling becomes a pure pleasure! We cycled past caravans of campers, motorhome paradises, and above all, countless idyllic natural landscapes. One structure stands out in this almost untouched scenery: the High Moselle Bridge . At 160 meters high, the bridge even surpasses Cologne Cathedral. Nestled among the beautiful vineyards, the 1,7-kilometer-long bridge is a true landmark and appears almost surreal in the harmonious landscape. It's currently in its "summer slumber," but from autumn 2019, up to 25.000 cars are expected to cross the High Moselle Bridge daily.

The wineries on the Moselle

Our first stop was the Lotz winery in Erden , where a breathtaking view of the steep vineyards awaited us. Since I wouldn't exactly call myself a wine connoisseur, it was particularly exciting for me to taste the different wines and discern the subtle yet significant differences. Sometimes, they were merely delicate nuances of flavor. Especially because the Mythos Mosel Riesling tour features only excellent wines, I find it fascinating how a layperson can gradually develop an appreciation for the individual aromas. My concern about whether I'd still be able to ride a bike after a wine tasting, by the way, proved completely unfounded.

Approx. 60-75 ml are poured into each wine glass. I made sure that I could try about 2-3 different wines per winery (of course in trial quantities), with a few breaks in between. I particularly liked the concept that so many participating wineries can be found on the route and you can "sniff" at each one.

Young Talents: The Simon Brothers Winery

In Lösnich, we stopped at the Gebrüder Simon winery . With its special "Young Talents" category, the Mythos Mosel tour also offers the opportunity to taste wines from young winemakers. Incidentally, it was at this winery that I discovered one of my new favorite wines, the "Buttertopf" Riesling Spätlese (off-dry).

Art Nouveau charm with tradition: Villa Huesgen winery in Traben-Trarbach

Perhaps the most romantic winery on our trip is the historic Villa Huesgen in Traben-Trarbach. The Middle Moselle town of Traben-Trarbach is full of Art Nouveau treasures that still testify to the prosperity of the wine merchants of the 19th and 20th centuries. Almost every building in Traben-Trarbach was designed by the famous architect Bruno Möhring (1863-1929). Magnificent buildings such as Villa Huesgen, the former spa and lodging house Wildstein (now Parkschlösschen), the stylish Hotel Bellevue (formerly Hotel Clauss-Feist), Villa Breucker, and the imposing bridge gate are impossible to miss when traveling through Traben-Trarbach.

In addition to the excellent wines, the Villa Huesgen with its small park and unusual architecture is a real sight. The magnificent villa, which is less reminiscent of a castle and more reminiscent of a fairytale house like something out of a fantastic picture book, has an almost unreal beauty.

Day 3 Landshut Castle, Traben-Trarbach and the Moselle loop

Cusanusstift: Here you will find one of the oldest libraries in the world

After breakfast, we set off for the Cusanus Chapel. The late Gothic collegiate church dates back to 1458, when the scholar, cardinal, and Prince-Bishop Nicholas of Cusa founded a hospital for the poor. To this day, the monastic complex provides accommodation and care for the elderly. The foundation also houses a world-famous library , now considered one of the most valuable private collections of manuscripts.

Minimalist & elegant: Burg Landshut Restaurant

After our visit to the Cusanus Foundation, we continued on to Landshut Castle . The hilltop castle ruins can be seen from afar on the horizon, both upstream and downstream. As they say, all roads lead to Rome. In this case, many roads lead to Landshut Castle. The castle can be reached on foot in a short hike of about 20 minutes. Those who have difficulty with the climb can take the sunny yellow, open-top vintage bus for a tour.

On this page you'll find the timetable for the Burg Landshut Express train as well as information on fares. Since we unfortunately didn't have much time and a rather full schedule, we drove up to the castle. But be aware: The tunnel in Bernkastel-Kues is currently closed. You can find up-to-date directions and a detour to the castle here.

Arriving at the castle, we were amazed by the breathtaking view of the Moselle River. A particular highlight is the Burg Landshut restaurant , whose modern architecture initially seems out of place in the typical Moselle landscape. However, as soon as you step inside, you're instantly captivated by the interior, the floor-to-ceiling windows, and the fantastic view. It feels as if there's no glass at all between the restaurant and the sky. Instead of dusty Moselle nostalgia and old-fashioned decor, guests are greeted by modern comfort and stylish design. It's also worth noting that both the restaurant and the courtyard are wheelchair accessible. If I didn't live so far away, I would love to celebrate a few occasions at the Burg Landshut restaurant. The view and the unique atmosphere are simply magnificent!

Traben-Trarbach: Travel back in time with flair to the Hotel Bellevue

After a brief respite from the heat, we slowly made our way to Traben-Trarbach. Since we were caught in a heavy downpour just before reaching Traben-Trarbach on our bike tour, we didn't have much time in the town and decided to visit it again the next day. Our first stop was the romantic Art Nouveau Hotel Bellevue . With its impressive wooden staircase and numerous Art Nouveau details, guests feel transported back to the Belle Époque.

Then we strolled through the romantic, rustic streets of Traben-Trarbach and tried to capture the very special atmosphere of the city on photos. In fact, the city feels almost Mediterranean with its mild climate, cozy alleys and colorful cafés.

Calmont on the Moselle: amazing view of the Moselle loop and breakfast above the clouds

We continued our journey towards Calmont and the Moselle loop. I had long been familiar with those famous photos of the Moselle loop at sunset and had always wanted to experience this view in person. Therefore, I was determined not to miss this vista. Near Bremm, the Moselle winds a 180-degree bend around the beautiful Stuben Monastery ruins. Incidentally, Calmont is the steepest vineyard on the Moselle. There are many viewpoints, and some of them are easily accessible by car, almost all the way to the summit cross.

Those with a bit of stamina and plenty of time will be rewarded with unparalleled views while hiking. The fresh forest air alone immediately filled me with wanderlust, and my hiking heart skipped a beat. I would have loved to stay there all day, but unfortunately, it was already quite late, and we had to head home that evening. Anyone who has ever dreamed of having breakfast above the clouds can fulfill this wish at the Calmont summit cross. Every Saturday and Sunday, a breakfast is offered here under the motto "Enjoyment with a Panoramic View." Spectacular views guaranteed! Larger groups can also inquire by phone about weekday reservations. In my opinion, such a breakfast above the clouds would also make a fantastic gift idea!

We decided to have a little picnic and watched the paragliders, who initially waited in vain for the right gust of wind. Then a summer breeze finally came and one by one they slowly slid away. For me, this moment was definitely a successful end to our little road trip along the magical Moselle.

More Attractions

Central Moselle Museum

Goethe and the French poet Apollinaire were already welcome guests in this romantic baroque villa. Goethe is known as a great wine connoisseur. It is even said that he was particularly enthusiastic about the delicious Moselle wine. If you are interested in the exciting city history of Traben-Trarbach and would like to immerse yourself in another time, this is the place for you.

Opening hours

July to October
daily: 10.00 a.m. to 17.00 p.m
closed on Mondays

Guided tour of the Mittelmosel Museum

Appointments: July 18.07th / 15.08. (Assumption of Mary) / September 19.09th / 27.09. / 17.10.
Time: 19.00 clock
Price: €5,00 per person (incl. entry)

Mittelmosel Museum
In the baroque villa Haus Böcking
Casinostrasse 2
56841 Traben-Trarbach
Tel .: 06541 - 9480
e-Mail: mittelmosel-museum@traben-trarbach.de

Buddha Museum

The Buddha Museum was of particular interest to me personally and I wanted to visit it at first. In my opinion, however, the entrance fee of 15 euros is a bit too high for a museum in a relatively small town. So I left it out. Everyone can of course decide for themselves. There was a family in front of me who would have liked to go in but decided against it because of the price. However, there are always events where entry is free.

Buddha Museum
Bruno Möhring 1st place
D 56841-Traben-Trarbach

Tel: + 49-6541-8165180
Fax: + 49-6541-8165188
Email: info@buddha-museum.de

Opening hours

Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 18 p.m.
Last admission 17 p.m
Closed on Mondays

Everything at a glance

Accommodation: Be a frog!

We were delighted to be back at the Märchenhotel (Fairytale Hotel) on our road trip to the Moselle. We felt very comfortable in the Frog Room . Every room in the hotel is unique, individually designed and furnished according to its theme. Since we had stayed here almost 10 years ago, we noticed that the hotel has new management. This time, however, we enjoyed it even more! The staff is warm, attentive, and very friendly. In addition to the perfect, central location in the old town of Bernkastel-Kues, we were also thrilled with the peaceful, lovingly prepared breakfast and the breathtaking view of the vineyards. We would definitely come back!

Fairy Tale Hotel
Kallenfelsstr. 25-27
54470 Bernkastel-Kues
Germany
Phone: + 49 6531 96550
Fax: + 49 06531 1432
Email:  info@maerchenhotel.com
Website: www.maerchenhotel.com

Bike Rental

We rented our bikes from Fun Bike Team . Pick-up and return went smoothly.

http://www.funbiketeam.de/

Fun Bike Team Bernkastel-Kues
Schanzstrasse 22, 54470 Bernkastel-Kues

Myth Moselle

When?

Every year on the weekend after Pentecost

Where?

There are three approximately 20km long sections of the Moselle, which alternate at regular intervals:

1. Ürzig to Briedel (2019)

2. Detzem to Piesport (2020)

3. Kesten to Zeltingen (2021)

What does the entry cost?

Sample (pre-sale): Saturday = €40, Sunday = €30, 2 days = €55

This includes access to all wineries, all samples, water and bread, as well as the shuttle bus that connects the wineries.

The opening ceremony costs between €150 and €200 depending on the year. (Tickets for the opening ceremony are limited)

You can find more information about the Moselle myth here.

Restaurants & Culinary

We had dinner at the hotel's own restaurant, Anno 1640 , and at the Taj Mahal . We enjoyed the food very much at both restaurants. Bernkastel-Kues offers many regional dishes in its restaurants, such as "Gräwes" (a typical, hearty winegrower's dish from the Moselle region).

Since I mainly eat vegetarian food, I was happy to find a large vegetarian selection on the menu in the Taj Mahal. The food was incredibly tasty, fresh and you could choose the degree of spiciness when ordering.

Anno1640
Fairy Tale Hotel
Kallenfelsstr. 25-27
54470 Bernkastel-Kues
Germany
Phone: + 49 6531 96550
Fax: + 49 06531 1432

Taj Mahal - Indian & Pakistani cuisine
Hebegasse 1
54470 Bernkastel-Kues

Moselle loop Bremm vantage point

Events

Wine festivals, gourmet shows and events: we celebrate all year round! The Moselle region offers a variety of different events for all ages and tastes. Here you will find the event calendar of the Bernkastel-Kues holiday region with all events for the year 2019. 

Conclusion

Holidays in Germany are always possible! And how! The Moselland has once again really convinced me of this. I could imagine spending a whole week on the Moselle. Because there really is something for everyone: whether cycling, hiking, taking part in wine tastings, boat trips, trying out new culinary dishes, attending the many festivals and events or simply enjoying sightseeing. It definitely won't be boring! Our Moselle road trip in June was a complete success!