From spa town to spa town: Oops, did I end up back in the Black Forest? At least that's what I thought for a brief moment when I arrived in the picturesque spa town of Bad Ems after a train ride of several hours. Since I live in a health resort myself, I immediately noticed the similarities between Bad Ems and my new home. But Bad Ems particularly stands out among the health resorts.
The enchanting spa town is not only known for its healing thermal springs, but also for its impressive architecture and its exciting history. For good reason, Bad Ems is part of the UNESCO World Heritage and, together with 10 other European spas, is one of the “Great Spa Towns of Europe”. In this article I share with you my personal highlights from our wellness weekend in the World Heritage spa town of Bad Ems and our stay at the Emser Therme. Let's go!
- On a walk into another time: Holidays in Bad Ems
- It's getting hot: the healing springs of Bad Ems
- Emser Therme in Bad Ems
- Wellness experience in a class of its own in the Emser Thermenhotel in Bad Ems: modern temple of well-being with a touch of luxury
- Emser Therme in Bad Ems
- Unique in Germany: river sauna with a phenomenal view
- Emser Therme in Bad Ems: Beware of addiction! My first aromatic candle oil massage
- Honeymoon day in Bad Ems
- Our Bad Ems highlights: sights & activities
- Impressive architecture: the casino in Bad Ems
- Kurtheater & event location in Bad Ems – celebrate majestically
- House four towers, also called Karlsburg von Bad Ems
- Bad Ems through the eyes of Oscar Barneck: The Leica Photo Point
- Canoe tour on the Lahn - from Obernhof towards Nassau
- Hiking like the emperors and tsars: Romantic tour of Bad Ems
- Restaurants in Bad Ems
- Restaurant Concordiaturm – Feasting with a heavenly view of Bad Ems
- Restaurant Benedetti – Grand Hotel Experience in Bad Ems
- Emser Therme in Bad Ems: Emser Thermenhotel restaurant for hotel guests

On a walk into another time: Holidays in Bad Ems
Surrounded by rolling hills, Bad Ems lies picturesquely on the banks of the Lahn between green forests and magnificent buildings. These are grand hotels and villas from the era of emperors and tsars who enjoyed the beneficial effects of the springs during their lifetime. Bad Ems was once “The Place To Be” for nobles and everyone of rank and name who regularly visited the city for treatment and relaxation.
This sophisticated magic of bygone times can still be felt today when you walk past the elegant spa houses and magnificent Art Nouveau villas. As if Tsar Alexander II and his uncle Kaiser Wilhelm I were about to appear around the next corner, engrossed in a reconciliation conversation about the so-called slap letter. But this is another story…
Because we are here in 2023 to immerse ourselves in today's wellness world of Bad Ems and, above all, to test the relaxation factor of the spa town.

It's getting hot: the healing springs of Bad Ems
Even today you can still bathe like a king in Bad Ems: A total of 15 thermal springs bubble up here and attract millions of visitors to the city every year. Because the health resort is located on a so-called healing spring saddle. Probably the most impressive spring in terms of record temperatures is without a doubt the Robert Kampe Spring. With a temperature of 57°C, it is one of the hottest springs in Germany. "When you're in a good mood" the geyser turns into a meter-high fountain.
Emser Therme in Bad Ems
The Robert-Kampe-Sprudel even supplies the Emser Therme thermal bath with its thermal spring water. After the water has evaporated, the famous "Ems pastilles" are made from the mineral salts.

Wellness experience in a class of its own in the Emser Thermenhotel in Bad Ems: modern temple of well-being with a touch of luxury
Nestled amidst the idyllic river landscape lies the beautiful Emser Thermenhotel . The moment I stepped into the modern lobby, I was instantly transported to a holiday state of mind: cozy seating areas everywhere, a fireplace, light-filled rooms, and furnishings in calming, dark, natural tones. After a quick and friendly check-in, I headed straight to my spacious and stylish room. A highlight was the breathtaking view of the rushing Lahn River and the river sauna, the first of its kind in Germany. One feature that particularly impressed me at the Emser Thermenhotel was the room orientation: all rooms face the sunny river. I was also impressed by the comfort and thoughtful design. From the electrical outlets and light switches to the ample storage space, every detail is stylish, modern, and practical. After slipping into the provided plush bathrobe, I could have easily settled into my room. But the heart of the Emser Thermenhotel was still waiting to be discovered.



Emser Therme in Bad Ems
So I grabbed my spa bag (by the way, every guest receives this practical spa bag with slippers, towels, and clothespins with their room number for their bathrobe in their room) and headed to the thermal baths. A particular highlight for overnight guests is the convenient bathrobe corridor , which allows them to walk directly from the hotel to the thermal baths and sauna area in their bathrobes. This gives them immediate access and allows them to immerse themselves in the wellness world of the Emser Therme without any detours. But the soothing thermal baths with their mineral-rich water are not the only highlight.
Unique in Germany: river sauna with a phenomenal view
Don't fancy staring at walls while you're in the sauna? No problem, because at the Emser Therme in Bad Ems, your sauna sessions take place on the river. The sauna park boasts Germany's only river sauna . Two saunas are located on the floating structure, offering breathtaking views of the idyllic Lahn Valley. The "Midnight Sauna" is also a highlight, as the thermal baths are open until midnight on Fridays and Saturdays. Ever experienced a sauna on a river under a full moon? No? Then it's about time! 😊

Emser Therme in Bad Ems: Beware of addiction! My first aromatic candle oil massage
In addition to its thermal baths, the Emser Thermen offer a comprehensive wellness program . From soothing massages and hammam treatments to the "Imperial Bath" in a luxurious bathtub – you'll find everything your wellness-loving heart desires. I opted for an aromatherapy candle oil massage, including a foot massage (the first massage of its kind I've ever tried). And what can I say? I was in seventh heaven for almost an hour. Instead of ordinary wax, warm, nourishing oils are dripped onto the skin and massaged in. You can also purchase the candles on-site to enjoy at home.

Honeymoon day in Bad Ems
The excitement continues: If you're from Bad Ems or the surrounding area, then the Honeymoon Day pass could be especially interesting for you. The Honeymoon Day pass includes:
- two day tickets for the thermal baths and sauna areas,
- two wellness massages of 20 minutes each
- two rental bathrobes
- 1x imperial bath in the luxury tub for 2
- 2-course menu in the Halberts restaurant
And maybe you will feel inspired to try the fragrant massage candles at home afterwards ;-)... Because you can buy them in the thermal baths.

Our Bad Ems highlights: sights & activities
For its quite manageable size, the town of Bad Ems has a large number of sights, excursion destinations and exciting photo spots. Here is a small selection that we particularly remember:

Impressive architecture: the casino in Bad Ems
The 300-year-old casino in Bad Ems is an eye-catcher, especially from the outside, and a wonderful photo opportunity.

Kurtheater & event location in Bad Ems – celebrate majestically
When I entered the Kurtheater in Bad Ems, I felt transported back to another time. The majestic façade of the theater, adorned with ornate decorations, still gives the building a touch of the elegance of bygone centuries. The heavy wooden doors creaked open to reveal the sumptuous interior with golden detailing and a stunning Neo-Rococo style chandelier.


Wedding location of a special kind
Want to get married where emperors and tsars once danced? Both the Marble Hall and the Kurtheater (Spa Theatre) still serve as venues for cultural events and functions: from large conferences to wedding receptions, the spaces can be rented. The outdoor bandstand offers a picturesque setting for civil ceremonies right next to the chestnut garden and the large fountain. Alternatively, the elegant Blue Salon is available indoors, also ideal for civil ceremonies during the colder months.

House four towers, also called Karlsburg von Bad Ems
This delicate, baroque building was once the unofficial summer residence of Tsar Alexander II. In the past, however, many other celebrities have stayed here, including the famous composer Carl Maria von Weber and several European monarchs.

Bad Ems through the eyes of Oscar Barneck: The Leica Photo Point
Oscar who? Maybe the name doesn't tell you anything yet, but determines the company that is associated with it. During the Romantic Era, the baths enjoyed great popularity as a sought-after destination high above Bad Ems. And it was in this idyllic location that Oscar Barnack conducted an exciting test of a strange contraption that would go on to become one of the most groundbreaking inventions of the past century. As the creative mind behind the Leica 35mm camera, he took the very first snapshots with the legendary "Ur-Leica" at the Badelei. As a tribute to this remarkable experiment, the enchanting Leica Foto Point was built on behalf of the Leica company.
Canoe tour on the Lahn - from Obernhof towards Nassau
A definite highlight of our trip was the canoe tour from Obernhof towards Nassau. And what better way to explore the landscape and surroundings than in a cheerful canoe trip? Before setting off, however, we were treated to a small wine tasting with an original Lahn wine.

So we set sail in a four-person canoe – or rather we set sail on the Lahn. From the Wolff boat rental we went on the taster route of 5 km through the Nassau Nature Park. Incidentally, the canoe tours are available in different lengths – from a two-hour taster trip for beginners to adventures lasting several days for professionals.


While we glided leisurely over the calm waters in the best weather, an enchanting landscape stretched out before our eyes. The shores are surrounded by lush greenery that is reflected in the sparkling water. Gentle hills and idyllic forests stretch along the river bank and right in the middle we also caught a glimpse of the Arstein Monastery in Obernhof, which is impressively embedded high above the river in the picturesque location. I immediately felt slowed down and at the same time fascinated by the stillness and tranquility of this place. Passing various birds and even a beaver, I would have loved to spend the whole day on the river, but the taster tour was probably just the right thing for my arms.
Hiking like the emperors and tsars: Romantic tour of Bad Ems
Another way to discover the idyllic river landscape but also the historic spa district of Bad Ems is on a hike along the romantic circuit. Fantastic views of Bad Ems open up from the numerous viewing temples and thanks to the information boards you get a feeling for how noblemen, artists, tsars and emperors used to hike here and marveled at the wonderful view.

Restaurants in Bad Ems
Bad Ems has an exciting restaurant landscape. From traditional German cuisine to international specialties, there is something for every palate. Here is my personal selection of restaurants & cafés in Bad Ems.
VONUNDZU - Restaurant & wedding location in the heart of Bad Ems
The name alone piques your curiosity, doesn't it? VONUNDZU in the Kurhaus of Bad Wildbad is a highlight both indoors and out. The large terrace, designed with an inviting Mediterranean flair, instantly evokes thoughts of balmy summer evenings and is perfectly suited for dreamy wedding celebrations . The historic Kurhaus shines with a modern yet romantically cozy ambiance. May is asparagus season, and accordingly, the menu features delicious and sophisticated dishes and menus centered around asparagus. The food is presented with care and creativity. Vegan menus are also available upon request. Currently, there's also a pop-up restaurant , which is proving very popular. You can find available dates on the website.


Restaurant Concordiaturm – Feasting with a heavenly view of Bad Ems
A beautiful spot where culinary delights and breathtaking views go hand in hand is the Restaurant Concordiaturm, located right next to the Concordiaturm tower in Bad Ems. It's ideal for stopping after a hike or even starting your adventure from here. A popular hike is the 4-Towers Tour. Besides the panoramic windows with their magnificent views of Bad Ems and the Lahn River, the summer terrace is another highlight. But it's not just the panorama that's impressive; the cuisine at the Restaurant Concordiaturm is equally impressive. Here, traditional German dishes blend seamlessly with creative influences to create true culinary delights. The menu is a tribute to regional products and offers a diverse selection to suit every taste. The wild garlic soup is truly divine!

Restaurant Benedetti – Grand Hotel Experience in Bad Ems
When exploring Bad Ems, you should definitely visit the Häckers Grand Hotel, if only for its historic ambiance. This historic hotel also houses the elegant Restaurant Benedetti . On a nice day, you can enjoy a fine meal here with a glass of wine and soak up the atmosphere of this spa town. The building also contains the award-winning Maharishi Ayurveda Clinic , which we also visited and where we received a brief introduction to Transcendental Meditation.


Emser Therme in Bad Ems: Emser Thermenhotel restaurant for hotel guests
You can also feast deliciously in the restaurant in the Emser Thermenhotel. In addition to the daily changing buffet, hotel guests have the choice between à la carte and the buffet in this restaurant. I was particularly pleased about the extensive drinks menu with many interesting non-alcoholic options, such as the more exotic Thomas Henry Cherry Blossom Tonic.
You can find further travel inspiration within Rhineland-Palatinate in our articles " Vacation in a monastery at Lake Laach" and "Traveling by e-bike in Gerolstein and Bitburg".
Did our tips help you plan your trip or inspire you to take a trip to Bad Ems? Then feel free to share the post with your friends, save it on Pinterest or tag @linazerrella in your Instagram story!
This article was written as part of a press trip with Rheinland-Pfalz erleben . Many thanks for that!


